FAQ

If the water level drops consistently below the skimmer and then stops, this usually indicates a leak in the pool structure or plumbing at that depth. Common culprits include return jets, light niches, or cracks in the wall below the skimmer.

Losing 1 inch of water per day is typically too much to be evaporation alone, especially if weather conditions are mild. This rate usually points to a leak somewhere in the system—whether in the pool structure, plumbing, or equipment pad. A small leak can waste hundreds of gallons daily and increase your water bill, so it’s important to rule out evaporation. Click here for more info and schedule a professional inspection if the water loss continues.

If water continues dropping below the skimmer until it stabilizes, the leak is most likely at the return jets, light niche, or pool wall at that level.

Sudden, significant water loss overnight is often due to a major leak in the plumbing system or a large liner tear. It can also happen if the pump was running and forced water through a failing pipe or seal. Rapid overnight drops usually require immediate professional leak detection.

The most common places for pool leaks are around the skimmer, return fittings, main drain, and underground plumbing lines. Skimmer leaks happen often because of the stress between the concrete pool and the plastic skimmer throat. Plumbing lines are also prone to leaks due to ground movement or wear and tear over time. In vinyl pools, small tears in the liner are a frequent culprit.

When a pool leaks, the water usually seeps into the ground or soil surrounding the pool. Depending on where the leak is located, it might also flow along the outside of underground plumbing lines, causing soil erosion or even making its way into nearby structures. In some cases, leaks can lead to wet spots in your yard or cause your pool deck to shift or crack over time.

Fiberglass pools most commonly leak around plumbing penetrations, return jets, skimmers, or fittings. Occasionally, cracks can form in the fiberglass shell itself, though this is less common.

The most common causes are structural cracks, failing seals around fittings, and damaged underground plumbing lines. Vinyl liners can also develop pinholes or tears over time. Most leaks occur at points where different materials meet—such as the skimmer throat, return fittings, or light niches.

The bucket test is a simple way to confirm if water loss is from evaporation or a leak. By comparing evaporation in a bucket to that in your pool, you can determine if water loss is abnormal. If the pool water drops more than the bucket water, it may be leaking.

Leak detection dye (or even food coloring) can be used. Squirt a small amount near suspected leaks, and the dye will be drawn toward the crack or opening.

Yes, losing about an inch of water per week is normal in most climates and is generally caused by evaporation. If your pool loses more than that, it may be a leak.

With the pump off, carefully squirt dye near suspected areas (skimmer, returns, cracks). Watch closely—if there’s a leak, the dye will flow toward it.

Monitor for loss first: click here for more info: https://colinironspoolservice.com/is-my-pool-leaking/, then try dye testing for visible leaks. If water loss continues and you can’t find the source, a professional can pressure test your plumbing lines.

The easiest way is to perform the bucket test. Fill a bucket with pool water, set it on a pool step, and mark the water levels on both the bucket and the pool wall. After 24 hours, compare the two. If the pool’s water level drops more than the bucket’s, you likely have a leak. Evaporation will affect both equally, while leaks will only affect the pool. We recommend that you turn off water features during this test.

For further monitoring, click here for more info.

Repairs may involve patching cracks with epoxy, replacing failing fittings, or re-plumbing sections of pipe. Because inground pools have complex plumbing systems, professional repair is usually needed for a permanent solution.

The fix depends on the leak’s source. Small liner tears can be repaired with a vinyl patch kit, while cracks in concrete or gunite pools may be sealed with epoxy or resurfacing material. Plumbing leaks often require pressure testing and pipe replacement. For best results, a professional leak detection service can identify the issue and provide a long-term solution rather than a temporary fix.

This usually requires pressure testing the plumbing lines and using listening and video/vacuum equipment to hear and/or see escaping water underground. Professional services are the best option for underground leaks.

Look for wet spots under the pool or listen for air hissing if it’s losing air. You can also apply soapy water to the outside—bubbles will form where air or water escapes. For small pinholes, patch kits work well.

Inspect the liner or shell carefully for cracks, feel for soft spots on the floor, and perform the bucket test. You can also use a few drops of food coloring or dye around suspect areas like the skimmer or returns—the dye will flow toward the leak if there is one.

Start with a bucket test to rule out evaporation, then move on to dye testing around fittings, lights, and seams to see if water is being pulled through a crack. For underground or hard-to-find leaks, professionals can sometimes use pressure testing and listening devices to locate the problem.

In most climates, you’ll need to add water once or twice a week during the swimming season. Adding water more often than that may indicate a leak, especially if your pool is losing more than ½ inch per day.

Under normal conditions, most pools lose about ¼ to ½ inch of water per day, which adds up to around 1 to 3 inches per week. The exact amount depends on the climate, wind, sun exposure, and whether your pool is heated. Anything beyond this range is usually a sign of a leak or excessive splash-out from swimming activity.

Most pools naturally lose about 1–3 inches per week from evaporation, depending on temperature, humidity, and wind. Anything more is outside the normal range and should be checked for leaks.

Repair costs vary widely: $200 up to the cost of a full remodel. If you delay finding and fixing the problem, it often costs more in the end.

The dye is heavier than water and allows you to see the water flowing or traveling to the leak, making it easy to see exactly where water is escaping. It works best when the pump is off, so the water is still.

Beyond the bucket test, consider the rate of loss. Normal evaporation rarely exceeds ½ inch per day, even in hot climates. If your pool loses more, or if the water stops dropping once it reaches a certain point (like below the skimmer or return fittings), that’s a strong sign of a leak rather than natural evaporation.

First, identify the source of the loss. Once located, the leak must be repaired—whether it’s a patch, new plumbing, or resealing a fitting. Keeping up with pool maintenance, balanced chemicals, and timely repairs helps prevent leaks from recurring.

You can start with dye testing near fittings and lights, but underground plumbing leaks require specialized equipment like pressure testing. A professional leak detection service can locate the spot without unnecessary digging.

Start with monitoring for loss – Is My Pool Leaking, then carefully check fittings, returns, skimmers, and the pool floor for cracks. If you can’t locate the leak, calling a professional with pressure testing equipment is the fastest and most accurate way.

The main drain is located at the deepest point of your pool’s floor. It may be round or square with a grate cover. Some pools have dual drains for safety. These are used for circulation and not typically to empty the pool.

Yes. Evaporation happens whenever there’s a difference between the water temperature and the air temperature, even at night. In fact, pools often lose more water overnight if the air is cool and the pool is warm.

Yes, it is possible to run your pool or spa with your skimmers turned off. However, running your equipment on your main drains alone will allow surface debris to accumulate in your pool or spa. Keep in mind that your pump and pool equipment needs to have at least one other method of suction open and operating if you close off the skimmers.

If the water in your pool is too low to fill the skimmer basket, there is a simple way to run your pool on the main drain alone. Close the skimmer valves at your equipment pad. Make certain the valve for your pool main drains is open. Do not run your pool with all suction valves closed off at the same time.

Running your pool or spa on your main drains alone is useful in a few situations. For instance, if you are leaving town for an extended period and are unable to monitor your pool daily, running your equipment’s suction on the main drains alone is an easy precaution. Using only the main drains is also an alternative if your leak is causing the pool to drain below the skimmers. Running your skimmers without enough water could cause damage to your pool’s pump. However, as long as your skimmers are not drawing or sucking air, they can be used.

If you have any questions and/or would like to schedule our services, please contact us at 940-484-4468 or click here to contact us.  We are here for you!